Exploring Namibia #4: Sossusvlei

Sesriem

Sesriem itself is not a town or a village, it’s a settlement and mainly consists of a petrol station, a grocery store, and a campsite. The ones that come to Sesriem probably come to see Sossusvlei, Dune 45, and Deadvlei … the famous salt pans and red dunes of the Namib Desert.

Less famous but definitely worth a visit is the Sesriem Canyon that is found only a few kilometres from the entry gate to the park. Up to 30 m deep, it provides enough shade to enjoy an afternoon walk and allows a good look to the beautiful layers of sedimentary rocks.

The canyon got its name from early Afrikaans explorers in the region: they had to use six (“ses”) leather straps (“riem”) tied together to create a rope long enough to lower buckets into the canyon below, in order to fetch water.

Two campsite options are available: the Sossus Oasis Campsite outside, or the NWR (Namibian Wildlife Resorts) Campsite inside the National Park. Being inside allows one to drive around an hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset, which is a plus, but the NWR locations usually do not convince me, so I decided to stay outside, where I got a very friendly welcome. The camp spot is shady and clean with an en-suite bathroom, a pool, and the shop holds a good selection of food to stock up my supplies.

Very special was my evening guest. While usually the Black-backed jackals try to steal your dinner, this time a smaller relative came along: a lovely Cape fox came to say hello which was amazing as they are usually quite shy. These ears … 😍

Sossusvlei / Deadvlei

Sossusvlei is a salt and clay pan in the southern part of the Namib Desert, encircled by high red dunes.

The word Sossusvlei originates from two languages, Nama and Afrikaans and literally translates to “dead-end” (from the Nama word “Sossus”) “marsh” (from the Afrikaans word “Vlei”). Strictly, Sossusvlei refers specifically to the salt and clay pan at the end of the Tsauchab River’s course, but the name it is often referred to the Dune 45, Deadvlei, and Hidden vlei as well.

The park opens for visitors at 6:15am, so I wanted to be at the gate a bit earlier. Equipped with enough sun cream and water, I left about 6:00am, but my journey ended right at camp´s gate that was still closed. They told me yesterday that the shop opens at 7:00am, but I had no idea that this includes the entire camping site … ☹ … damn! I was stuck inside! Frustrated I went back to the tent for another coffee when only half an hour later I saw my neighbours leaving. I thought they would face the same situation but unexpectedly they did not come back. Hmmm, would there be another way out? I jumped back in the car and explored the campsite and indeed there was a walking trail out for the staff people, just wide enough for the Landy to fit through. Ach, how annoying that I did not see that earlier, but anyhow, this could not be changed now.

On my way to Sossusvlei, which is another 60 km, I was amazed about the landscape that first was dominated by the Sesriem Canyon, but then by the famous dunes.

It was so fascinating that I nearly missed the Brown Hyena that was just on the way to her day shelter.

With the heat picking up quickly, I decided to first go to Big Daddy, with 325 m one of the highest sand dune worldwide! The heat is crazy, the view is stunning, and once more Namibia shows its incredible diversity and beauty. What a fascinating place!

To its feet lays Deadvlei, another clay pan characterised by dark, 900 years old dead Camel thorn trees. What a deserted place!

I finish this day at Elrim dune, a small one right at the park entrance. Watching the sun setting and dipping the area into this wonderful warm light, observing some of the desert adapted animals, and marvel at the vastness and loveliness of this place is the perfect end of this day.